As 2018 comes to an end, we reflect on some of the biggest trends in menswear last season. From patterns to oversized outerwear, the season has been filled with great surprises that will easily carry over to the end of winter. You might even find inspiration for your new year’s eve look.
1. PINNED DOWN
Aside from Hollywood’s historic love of dressing gangsters in them, pinstripes have typically been the preserve of business suiting, and very traditional business suiting at that — the dress of lawyers and bankers. But fashion looks to be rescuing them from stuffiness. Designer Virgil Abloh’s Business Casual A/W18 collection for Off/White captures the mood, but Alex Mullins, John Lawrence Sullivan and Alexander McQueen are among labels giving the pinstripe a more relaxed, slouchy feel.
2. CAPABLE BROWN
If there was one colour typically avoided by anyone remotely stylish, it’s been brown. Not any more. Brown — or chocolate, tan or taupe, to give it a more fashion spin — is the colour of the season. It figures in suits from Ermenegildo Zegna and Marni, in accessories from Armani and Craig Green, and was dotted about Kim Jones’ final Louis Vuitton collection. Once you accept the idea of brown as neither drab nor dull, its richness makes a welcome change from the austerity of black and the pedestrian ubiquity of navy.
3. PUFF DADDIES
No, it doesn’t get so cold in the desert, unless you’re out in the middle of the night. If that’s the case, make sure you’re packing the wearable duvet that is the quilted jacket. It’s all a bit 1980s — but then what isn’t these days? — yet puffed up and padded out jackets from the likes of Marni, MSGM, GmBH and Prada are all part of the increasing technical performance quality demanded of ever more functional, practical menswear.
4. GET KNITTED
If you thought statement jumpers were just for novelty or the misguided, think again. Intarsia has been a trend for a couple of years now and isn’t going quietly. Bold pattern, super-oversized cuts, textural 3D effects, ski-style neon inserts, woven text, graphically printed, embroidery — every trick in the book has been used to make the jumper that bit more arresting. Lou Dalton and Hermes, Liam Hodges and AMI have all offered their take on stand-out cosy.
5. CHECK THIS OUT
Menswear has always had its checks, whether traditional tartan, dainty gingham or the bright plaids of a lumberjack shirt. But this season, checks are as bold as they come — outsized, sometimes boldly colourful and in all varieties, from tattersall to madras, windowpane to Prince of Wales. Old school designer names such as Versace and Kenzo have dabbled, so too have more modern sartorialists like E. Tautz and Thom Browne.
6. BELT UP
If you’re wearing a coat, make sure it’s belted. Christophe Lemaire and Issey Miyake are among designers who offer up dramatic, loose- fit overcoats with soft shoulders and wide sleeves, then bring the silhouette into sharp relief with a tightened belt. It’s part dressing gown, part noir detective. And if you want to really go for it, the coat should be in leather too, as at John Lawrence Sullivan and Missoni. At last, the leather overcoat might be rescued from Withnail and I obsessives.
See more winter inspiration in one of our photo shoots: Luxe Leisure here