Alexander McQueen Presents Its Autumn-Winter Menswear In Milan

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Inspired by nature, art nouveau and a famous British artist

It may have been on the slick, polished catwalks of Milan Fashion Week Men’s that Alexander McQueen presented its autumn-winter 2020 collection, but the inspiration behind it came from elsewhere: “The windswept earth, stripped bare: flint, rock, coarse earth and thistles,” read the accompanying material.

And there’s more. “Art nouveau and arts and crafts: the restrained elegance of modernsim. The organic abstraction of Henry Moore’s drawings,” explained the notes. Henry Moore OBE was an English artist who died in the mid-1980s, and his work is now a special print.

The result is double-breasted overcoats and tailored suits, precision cut with sharp darted panels in flint grey and coal black Donegal tweeds, inspired by minerals, rocks and stones. Coats and jackets in grey sharkskin mohair and black wool are spliced and slashed, echoing the lines of military harnessing.

Panels from classic military coats are cut into signature tailoring and camel overcoats. Coats and jackets are pieced and patched in black wool and camel. An inky black thistle, hand-drawn in the Alexander McQueen studio, is printed, then over-embroidered in gold and silver bullion thread on an ivory wool jacket and coat, and a cotton poplin shirt.

A coat is bonded in mineral yellow suede. A leather coat is garment-beetled, pounded by specially-created wooden beams for more than four hours by William Clark, the last remaining practitioner of this century-old technique in Ireland.

Oversized knits in wool and mohair feature abstract markmaking, sculptural skulls, and an exploded Argyle-flag motif, while artists’ overalls in stone and white are printed with oversized, hand-drawn skulls and embroidered with silver and gold bullion thread. Leather motorcross jackets and trousers have contrast quilted panelling. Sharp, signature tailoring comes in double-duchess satin, in shades of deep orange and carnelian red, worn with leather military harnessing.

Wool silk suits and coats are printed with an engineered artwork of Henry Moore, Three-Quarter Figure 1928, reproduced courtesy of the Henry Moore Foundation.

A trompe l’oeil double-reverse tuxedo jacket is worn over tuxedo trousers, while a jet black art nouveau engineered thistle and a molten metal ore harness in gold and silver bullion thread are worn with black duchess satin trousers. Hybrid jackets and coats are cut in ivory and black wool silk, and silver and gold metallic.

Tailored evening jackets and overcoats gleam with abstract markmaking, molten metal order and engineered art nouveau iris silver bullion embroidery.

Coming soon to an Alexander McQueen store near you.

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