Between an extreme heatwave threatening to push temperatures to a boiling 40 degrees and a late-night Saint Laurent after-party that saw fashion’s elite dancing past midnight, the mood in the capital was sleepy, if not entirely exhausted. But Jonathan Anderson waits for no one. Prompted by the dangerous weather forecasts, the designer changed plans, pushing the Dior Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 show up to a 9:00 AM breakfast slot.
The venue was the Musée Nissim de Camondo, an 18th-century-style mansion currently closed for renovations. Guests arriving in the early morning sun were met with cold towels, fresh strawberries, and eggshell-toned handheld fans to combat the climbing humidity. Yet, what could have been a logistical headache turned out to be the perfect backdrop for a collection rooted in the concept of the ultimate all-nighter.
For his third menswear outing at the House, Anderson dismantled the stiff, shrunken proportions of his debut a year ago, opting instead for a looser but decadent iteration of the ‘disheveled aristocrat.’ The show began in silence until the opening model, dressed in a sheer black smoking jacket over a fluid white shirt with exaggerated cuffs, walked up to a speaker, grabbed an aux cord, and plugged in his phone
What followed felt less like a runway and more like an elite teenage rave crashing a historic estate. Models strode through the parquet-floored salons looking as though they had been up for three days straight, blurring the lines between centuries-old styles and the more modern nightlife.
The SS27 Dior Men collection featured frayed, shredded denim and distressed knitwear paired with embroidered shirts and black evening trousers. A crisp tuxedo shirt was casually thrown over stone-washed pink shorts and anchored by a heavy wool frock coat. The tailoring also had a new introduction with the Bobby suit, a silhouette inspired by a vintage Marc Bohan jacket from Anderson’s personal wardrobe, designed in breezy pinstripes and sheer silk chiffon.
But what’s a party without the glamour? Mirroring the glittering black disco-ball invitations sent out earlier in the week, the runway saw shimmering silver and gold lamé pieces, gold python shorts, and a pair of standout disco ball boots that are bound to be the footwear of the season. Glitter was woven everywhere, into the hems of jackets, the edges of knitwear, and most notably, a chunky orange sweater adorned with a silver rosette.
This season, by leaning into fluid suits, glittering designs and interchangeable separates, Anderson bridged the gap between his artistic impulses and the desires of the traditional Dior client. With the heatwave long forgotten, the creative director closed the Dior Men SS27 show to well-deserved applause.
Rewatch show here
