Jil Sander’s AW26 show in Milan was centred on womenswear, exploring fluidity, structure, and domestic inspiration. But menswear was also part of the story, offering its own perspective on the same ideas, leading us to consider how Bellotti’s vision translates across genders.
Menswear retained the house’s signature clarity. Jackets fastened high, trousers elongated the line, and coats fell imaculately tailored. From the front, the tailoring is composed, confident, and architectural. Yet as the models moved, small gestures transformed the garments. High slits at the back of coats and blazers created movement and swing. Collars shifted backwards, shoulders lifted slightly – details that invite energy into otherwise structured forms.
Fabric allowances were extended and designed to flex with the body, allowing the garments to interact with motion. Bar-tacked folds exposed construction, letting tailoring mechanics become part of the design. Upholstery-inspired fabrics shaped curves that softened the silhouette without compromising the linear correctness the house is known for.
The palette – muted neutrals, charcoal, deep blues, and black – reinforced the house’s disciplined aesthetic while letting movement and proportion remain central. Footwear and accessories continued the conversation: square-toed lace-ups, unisex flats, and exaggerated heels introduced geometry and lift, balancing structure with fluidity.
