Milan Fashion Week has always been worth paying attention to for one reason above all others: the tailoring. For SS27, that held true, with a week that delivered a focused and considered picture of modern menswear. From Prada’s exercise in precision to Giorgio Armani’s sun-drenched Mediterranean closing statement, the collections painted a clear picture of how a well-dressed man should think next summer. Here, MOJEH Men breaks down the highlights.
Ralph Lauren Goes All In With A Double Bill
For his second standalone menswear show in the city, Ralph Lauren presented both the Polo and Purple Label collections in one sitting. The throughline was the gentleman on the move: relaxed tailoring, utility outerwear and easy suiting in neutral and indigo tones anchoring the first half, before the show pivoted into vintage lakeside racing territory, complete with Art Deco references and open-weave linens. Woven into the Purple Label segment was a limited-edition capsule with Japanese label KUON, which brought handcrafted sashiko embroidery to unmistakably Lauren pieces and made for one of the more interesting cultural crossovers of the week.
Prada’s Case For Dressing With Intention
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons kept things focused for SS27. The collection started from the most familiar ground possible — jeans, denim jackets, T-shirts — and worked inward from there, adjusting cuts and tightening proportions until each piece felt deliberately considered rather than casually thrown together. What kept it from feeling austere was the accessories, with mismatched eyewear and chalk-bag-inspired nylon pouches clipped to belts giving the collection some personality without undercutting the precision.
Brunello Cucinelli On Free Dressing
Brunello Cucinelli built his newest summer collection around a line from Shakespeare’s The Tempest: “thought is free.” In practice, that translated into a wardrobe with no fixed dress code and no strict rules about what goes with what. Cargo trousers and washed denim sit comfortably alongside shawl-collar tailoring; safari jackets layer over shirts and ties; leather jackets carry a sun-faded, worn-in quality that feels lived-in rather than distressed. The materials run from linen and washed cotton to ultra-light wools and cashmere, with garment-dyed knits in pastels adding some colour to the mix. It is the kind of wardrobe that takes on the personality of whoever is wearing it, which is precisely the point.
Thom Browne’s Garden Party
Few designers have as clear a visual language as Thom Browne, and his latest offering showed exactly why that consistency works. Set at Palazzo Serbelloni, the collection channelled gardening through the brand’s signature tailoring, updated in seersucker and styled with wide-brimmed straw hats, embroidered insects and trench coats worn with skirts. The finale sent out a bride dressed in white tulle, the self-proclaimed queen bee of the whole affair. It sounds like a lot, but Browne has a way of making the theatrical feel earned, and the tailoring underneath it all remains as sharp as ever.
Armani’s Ode To Summer, In 160 Looks
Closing the week at his historic palazzo, Giorgio Armani’s SS27 show under the creative direction of Leo Dell’Orco, which also featured Silvana Armani’s debut cruise collection, amounted to 160 looks in total. The inspiration was the Mediterranean in its most elemental form, and it came through clearly in the palette and fabrics: natural fibres throughout, tailoring rendered in linen, washed silk and bleached denim, and a colour story that ran from sandy neutrals to cobalt blue. The silhouette was relaxed without being sloppy, with longer jackets and slightly slimmer trousers keeping things balanced. It was a long show, but it made its point: the Armani ease is in capable hands, and it is dressing for the heat.
