Fashion Month isn’t just about new collections – it’s about who’s in charge. The creative director role has become one of the most high-stakes jobs in luxury: part visionary, part strategist, and part CEO in disguise. This year, the game has changed. After decades of musical chairs, some of the world’s biggest fashion houses are betting big on fresh talent, seasoned icons, and fresh new directions.
If luxury fashion is football, these are the new head coaches. Billions are on the line, and the world is watching.
New York – Nicholas Aburn at AREA
Debut: February 2025 (NYFW)
Background: Balenciaga couture, Tom Ford, Alexander Wang alum; Central Saint Martins graduate.
Nicholas Aburn stepped into AREA earlier this year after Piotrek Panszczyk’s exit. The New York label is famous for its crystal-encrusted, nightlife-ready designs, beloved by celebrities from Beyoncé to Lady Gaga. Aburn’s challenge? Keep the raw, downtown energy alive while scaling the brand into a global powerhouse. Think less party tricks, more sustained dominance.
Milan – The Italian Power Plays
Dario Vitale at Versace
Debut: September 12, 2025 (MFW)
Background: Former design and image director at Miu Miu.
On April 1, 2025, Donatella Versace stepped down as creative director after nearly three decades. Enter Dario Vitale, a young Italian designer whose eye for sharp tailoring and youth-focused luxury makes him a fascinating successor. Taking over Versace isn’t just a job – it’s inheriting one of fashion’s most dramatic legacies.
Demna at Gucci
Debut: September 23, 2025 (MFW)
Background: Former creative director at Balenciaga.
Demna’s move to Gucci shocked the industry. After redefining Balenciaga with his disruptive, meme-era aesthetic, he now faces Gucci’s sales slump and identity crisis. Can he do for Gucci what he once did for Balenciaga—ignite cultural obsession?
Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander
Debut: September 24, 2025 (MFW)
Background: Previously at Gucci and Bottega Veneta.
Known for precision and modern minimalism, Bellotti brings quiet power to Jil Sander. His debut will likely avoid gimmicks and lean into clean lines and sharp craftsmanship—the kind of clothes that don’t shout but dominate silently.
Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta
Debut: September 27, 2025 (MFW)
Background: Former creative director at Lacoste, Carven, and Joseph.
Louise Trotter already teased her Bottega aesthetic at Cannes, dressing Julianne Moore in a sleek one-shoulder gown. Expect her to double down on understated luxury, modern femininity, and the quiet confidence that Bottega has built its reputation on.
Paris – The Main Stage
Jonathan Anderson at Dior Women
Debut: October 1, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Creative director of Loewe and Dior Men.
Anderson has already reinvented Dior Men. Now, he’s taking on Dior Women, the jewel of the house. His wit, playfulness, and willingness to push boundaries could transform Dior’s most sacred codes into something unexpectedly modern.
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez at Loewe
Debut: October 3, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Founders of Proenza Schouler.
The Proenza duo left New York behind to co-pilot Loewe. Expect architectural sharpness, intellectual cool, and a new twist on Loewe’s reputation for leatherwork and surrealism.
Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga
Debut: October 4, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Creative director at Valentino (2008–2024).
Piccioli’s move from Valentino to Balenciaga is one of the most talked-about power shifts of the year. Known for his use of color and poetic couture, he’s expected to steer Balenciaga away from its shock-joke era and back toward elegance. His first show in Paris will be fashion’s hottest ticket.
Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela
Debut: October 4, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Creative director of Y/Project and Diesel.
Martens brings his conceptual, experimental edge to Margiela—a house built on deconstruction. Expect cerebral fashion with an avant-garde punch.
Duran Lantink at Jean Paul Gaultier
Debut: October 5, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Dutch designer known for upcycling and boundary-breaking work.
Lantink thrives on provocation. His take on Gaultier will likely lean into sustainable rebellion and playful shock value.
Matthieu Blazy at Chanel
Debut: October 6, 2025 (PFW)
Background: Former creative director of Bottega Veneta.
Appointed in December 2024, Blazy officially began at Chanel in April 2025. His debut show will be one of the most scrutinised moments of the season. With his track record of blending craft and modernity at Bottega, Chanel is betting he can bring both artistry and commercial firepower.
The Big Picture
This isn’t just about clothes. These designers will shape what men and women wear, what athletes are photographed in, what musicians flaunt in music videos, and what ends up trickling into streetwear. The moves made this season will ripple through culture for years.
Call it what it is: the start of fashion’s next power era.
New York Fashion Week
September 12: Nicholas Aburn – Area
Milan Fashion Week
September 12: Dario Vitale – Versace
September 23: Demna – Gucci
September 24: Simone Bellotti – Jil Sander
September 27: Louise Trotter – Bottega Veneta
Paris Fashion Week
October 1: Jonathan Anderson – Dior Women
October 2: Mark Howard Thomas – Carven
October 3: Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez – Loewe
October 4: Pierpaolo Piccioli – Balenciaga
October 4: Glenn Martens – Maison Margiela
October 5: Duran Lantink – Jean Paul Gaultier
October 6: Mathieu Blazy – Chanel
