It takes a particular kind of audacity to turn a 40-degree Paris afternoon into a literal steam room, but Anthony Vaccarello has never been one to prioritise comfort over a visual narrative. For Saint Laurent’s SS27 menswear showcase, the House took over the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce, using a suffocating heatwave (the hottest June day till date) and an immersive water-vapour installation titled Cloud #07156 by Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya to set the scene. The result was an atmospheric tension that added nuance to the designs that were showcased that afternoon.
The collection works to counter the hyper-stimulated internet age. Vaccarello’s thesis this season for Saint Laurent was rooted in omission and restraint, drawing inspiration from the sparse prose of Marguerite Duras and the pared-back elegance of Tina Chow. This concept of subtraction materialised as fluid tailoring that stripped away rigid structures. Blazers were sent down the runway completely devoid of shirts beneath them, while gossamer, skin-toned tops offered merely a phantom outline of a torso.
Even the traditional masculine archetypes were subverted. Classic high-waisted trousers were paired with voluminous, superhero-shouldered nylon anoraks in unexpected pastel shades, balancing old-school French conservatism with a touch of cool.
As the dense mist threatened to entirely swallow the models, some of whom walked in nothing but jackets and leather briefs, the show reached its climax. A series of finale looks rendered in liquid lamé and hammered satins cut through the vapour like headlights in the dark. A utilitarian trench coat, spun into shimmering gold, brought the collection back to reality.
A star-studded front row at Saint Laurent including Austin Butler, Kate Moss, and Charli XCX sat sweltering in leather and PVC. But it was Madonna, arriving late in a coated lace dress, who solidified the afternoon’s star power. In a season that often demands loud gimmicks, Vaccarello proved that seduction lies in what you choose to hide in the fog.
Rewatch show here
