Somewhere between the Swinging Sixties, a pair of gifted designers working above a Bond Street boutique, and one unusually focused collector with extraordinary taste, history got made on the wrist. On April 24th, that history goes under the hammer in Hong Kong – and the watch world will be paying close attention.
Sotheby’s has titled this sale “The Shapes of Cartier: The Finest Vintage Grouping Ever Assembled” – a bold claim, but one supported by an undeniably strong lineup. The 300-plus pieces were assembled over decades by a single private collector, bringing together rare examples from all three of Cartier’s historic ateliers: Paris, London, and New York – each of which operated with a notable degree of creative independence through much of the 20th century.
What sets this collection apart isn’t just the number of watches. It’s the depth of the London pieces. Cartier London – particularly in the late 1960s and early 1970s – produced some of the maison’s most unconventional designs. Pieces like the Crash, the Asymétrique, and various geometric forms were made in very small nnumbers, appeared only occasionally at auction, and have become highly sought after by collectors.
The Crash: The Most Radical Wristwatch Ever Made
You’ve probably heard the story. A Cartier client in 1960s London crashes their car, their watch is recovered distorted, and Jean-Jacques Cartier decides to recreate the shape.
It’s a great story. It’s just not true.
According to Francesca Cartier Brickell – granddaughter of Jean-Jacques and author of The Cartiers – the Crash was an entirely deliberate design. Jean-Jacques and designer Rupert Emmerson developed it as a creative statement, reflecting a period when design across fashion, art, and culture was intentionally pushing boundaries.
The result was something genuinely radical: a warped, asymmetric case with hand-painted Roman numerals adapted to its unusual form. Early examples from the London workshop were produced in very limited quantities, with slight variations between pieces.
What is beyond debate is the market’s response. Vintage London Crash watches are among the most valuable Cartier timepieces ever sold. A 1967 example reached approximately $1.65 million at auction in 2022, setting a record for the brand.
The 1987 example leading this Hong Kong sale is estimated at up to $800,000 – and given the trajectory of the Cartier market, strong results would not be surprising.
The Lots to Know
1987 Cartier London Crash
Yellow gold, hand-finished, with the signature distorted oval case. Est. $400,000 – $800,000
Cartier London Decagonal
18-carat yellow gold, 10-sided case. Extremely rare and seldom seen at auction. Est. $60,000 – $80,000
Cartier London Asymétrique, Blue Enamel
A bold geometric design with striking colour. Est. $50,000 – $80,000
Cartier Tank Asymétrique
Originally introduced in 1936, one of Cartier’s most unconventional Tank designs. Est. $60,000 – $80,000
Cartier Driver’s Watch
Featuring a rotated dial designed for easy reading while driving. Est. $50,000 – $80,000
Cartier Baignoire, 1970s
The elongated oval form that helped inspire later experimental designs. Est. $50,000 – $68,000
This sale feels less like a typical auction and more like a temporary exhibition – a collection assembled over decades, now appearing in one place at one time.
The obvious headline will be the Crash. But for informed buyers, the opportunity may lie elsewhere. Rare geometric London pieces – particularly designs like the Decagonal – combine scarcity with comparatively modest estimates.
Jean-Jacques Cartier is said to have once suggested the Crash might have been underpriced when it was first sold. On April 24th in Hong Kong, the market will offer its own correction.
