Sporty meets artisanal
At last month’s Paris Fashion Week, showgoers were given a sneak peek at Berluti’s autumn-winter collection, which will be released later this year. Here, its artistic director, Kris Van Assche, has looked to the brand’s heritage. It has made clothing since 2011, but has crafted footwear from 1895. The idea? To explore nuances from classic footwear, transferred through the lens of fine tailoring.
A blue slate suit sets the scene. It is loosened in silhouette, worn with a crimson roll neck rather than a suit-and-tie, and bright blue and red sneakers. A soft weekend bag in Berluti’s new Signature Canvas, meanwhile, holds a pair of classic Alessandro patina oxfords, as formal collides with sportswear.
In a continual conversation between contrasts, old and new inform and augment one another, marrying the bourgeoisie and the rebel. As silhouettes become more casual, the established signatures of Berluti loosen up. The patina leather suit – a new trademark for the brand – is softened and refined, and the colours of patina are introduced to sportier manifestations in shearling, puffer and bomber jackets.
Multi-coloured patterns informed by the stained surfaces of the tables on which the shoemakers would hand-dye the patina shoe feature in silk shirts and ponyskin outerwear. Expanding the territory, they are decolourised with a splash technique, executed by hand.
Motifs associated with heritage dressing are introduced, but the patterns of Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and herringbone are magnified and deconstructed across the extended wardrobe. Silk shirts imitate original heritage patterns in trompe l’oeil prints, and a camel-coloured knit appears like houndstooth by way of embroidery.
Identifying shared genetics between heritage motifs and those of sportswear, the sporty chevron is elevated in voluminous intarsia shearling coats, executed by furriers as a natural take on faux fur in shocking pink and blue, or white and orange.
The sporty look continues to integrate with the artisanal: a coat and a caban in fluo multi-colours are constructed entirely from thin leather strips. Ponyskin outerwear is lined in down, while patina leather jackets undergo quilting, and super-refined leather is used in joggers, with shirting resembling nylon.
A green patina blouson nods at the furniture collaboration between Pierre Jeanneret and Berluti, while the brand’s classic Scritto motif is reimagined for a new canvas, named Signature – used on a weekend bag, a backpack, a tote, trunks, a watch case and a shoe care kit from the new collaboration with Globe-Trotter.
Finally, the Gravity sneaker is given new life in colour-blocking, informed by the eccentric hues of the collection. A new homage to the Alessandro shoe extends its toe into a pointed diamond shape, skewed and abstracted for exaggeration.
Berluti stores are located in Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates.