Previewed the looks for the spring-summer 2020 collection
The first scheduled show of Milan Menswear Fashion Week belonged to Ermenegildo Zegna, who took the opportunity to reveal its spring-summer 2020 collection. Taking place within an old abandoned iron mill that will soon be reborn, becoming a hub for health and science, along with green and residential areas, there was a reason behind the choice of venue – Zegna itself is also repurposing, using nylon and cotton upcycled from its existing waste product. Many of the items shown used these materials, with #UseTheExisting the byword for the collection.
Zegna’s artistic director, Alessandro Sartori, said, “It’s our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly. I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabric-making, to the exquisite technicality of tailoring, to the highly communicative aspect of show-making. Everything is connected, and everything conveys the same idea: we don’t need to create the new from scratch, but reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation.”
A highlight was the Achill suit, made entirely with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill farm, discarded during the process of suit-making, then remixed and rewoven. It was shown with various accessories: bold-soled printed boots or derbies; signature Claudio sneakers; and wearable notebooks and pouches in small geometric shapes.
The silhouette for spring-summer 2020 is neat: boxy blousons, voluminous coats, sleek three-button blazers and slim one-button jackets with 3D patch pockets, paired with lean-yet-soft trousers or fuller ones. Generous pockets migrate from the sportier items onto tailored ones, while tailored details move to sport pieces, suggesting a mix of categories that expands the possibilities of use.
Knits are building blocks that increase the modularity of modern dressing. Light fabrics, such as wools and technical silks, enhance the precision of the lines and the weightlessness of the sartorial construction, with flattened crinkles, photoprints of graphic assemblages and progressive stripe patterns giving rhythm to the surfaces. Macro chiné motifs have a painterly feel, and mineral dyes add depth to denim.
Look out for the spring-summer 2020 collection in Ermenegildo Zegna stores soon.