Inspired by Britain’s 1980s obsession with Japanese design
The Museum of Decorative Arts in the Louvre’s west wing became the setting for the unveiling of Dunhill’s spring-summer 2020 collection, with the event held as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Beneath its high ceilings, the museum often hosts exhibitions concerning fashion, advertising and graphic arts, which is well suited to a range of clothing that embodies all three.
Dunhill’s creative director, Mark Weston, has been inspired by Britain’s fascination with Japan and Japanese design during the 1980s. To make this point clearer, he has also teamed up with Japanese digital artist Kenta Cobayashi, resulting in four unusual prints. Cobayashi, known for his distortive technique, has worked with images from the brand’s advertising archives, which includes a shot of Dunhill’s Jermyn Street, London store from the 1960s. These have been blown-up, manipulated, and included on various pieces.
For a smarter look, modern Japanese classicism and volume fused with relaxed, wrapped tailoring has taken the place of the double-breasted jacket. Described as a ‘kimono approach’ to cutting, this has clearly influenced the split and pooled hem trousers. There are also pressed and washed wool-silks and eveningwear fabrics, along with cravat-neck shirts and ‘Tall Boy’ briefcases from the archives.
Other highlights include the double-faced leather ponchos, as well as ‘Rolla’ quilted leather outerwear and silk acetate parkas. Pair with the python and calf leather Derby shoes and hotel slippers, or a white wool-silk sateen suit.