Oversized outerwear and bold patterns
At Milan Fashion Week Men’s, it’s not just the clothes of the runway you prepare to be dazzled by. The settings echoing the theme are equally as memorable, with designers trying to outdo each other here, just as they are with their collections.
For Etro’s autumn-winter launch, the setting was a garage covered in old paintings and portraits, which were said to be a nod to ancient traditions, and the need to both honour and defy them, discovering new techniques instead. Green ivy crept up the walls, which coupled with the artworks echoed the poetic romanticism and ethnic vibe the brand has always been known for.
So did that mean it was going to play by its usual rules or break them? The collection seemed to switch between both sentiments. Warm and reassuring statement pieces formed the backbone of the range, with the tailoring tradition blurring with themes of discovery and adventure. Horses seen in the paintings were transformed into winged creatures, like Pegasus, popping up on fluid silk shirts or in the faded camouflage pattern of a trench.
Classic and impeccable pea coats found a place next to ponchos, revealing jacquard motifs inspired by ancient blankets, while regimental outerwear styles hid flamboyant linings, celebrating love and freedom. There were Heritage Paisley patterns too, bringing a joyful and vibrant decorative audacity to printed velvet coats and eternal jacquard sweaters.
Elsewhere, a polished, controlled punk attitude gave a subversive touch to printed denim trousers, and to the suits trimmed with micro studs, or the Paisley boots enriched with metallic embellishments. Finally, a charming, ancestral, artisanal feel was injected into the maxi cardigans lined with printed silk, while a romantic, languid vibe resonated in the mohair leopard coats, as well as the colourful double-breasted corduroy suits, worn with slippers featuring aristocratic crests.
Etro has pitched its autumn-winter range as the ultimate, essential wardrobe of the hopeless romantic gentleman. Find it in stores later this year. An Etro boutique is located in Dubai Mall.