Said to be inspired by the ‘northern soul’ of the UK
An iconic British brand, Alexander McQueen has scoured the length and breadth of its UK heritage to find the inspiration for its autumn-winter range. Much of its new look stems from the cities of Northern England, its factories, steelworks and docks, as well as the optimism the country felt in the 1950s and post-war, blended with the creative freedom of the 1980s, and the music of Joy Division, New Order and The Smiths.
This is gritty realism juxtaposed with English romanticism. Outerwear and workwear appear throughout, with trench coats in cotton gabardine, and sharp wool overcoats pieced with houndstooth and Prince of Wales check. Also look for dry wool donkey jackets with leather panelled sleeves, and boiler suits cut in light wool silks and fine leathers.
Scale and proportion are exaggerated: an oversized overcoat is juxtaposed with mini-Parkas and bomber jackets; an exploded dogtooth check mohair sweater is worn with skinny leather speedway trousers. ‘Old man’ tailoring and work suits – cropped, single-breasted jackets and double-pleat peg trousers – feature in pieced and patched Savile Row wools, as well as metallic floral wool silk jacquards in 1950s pastels and burgundy.
Bold hand-painted checks and torn rose prints appear across suiting and jackets; pinstripe suiting is woven with English roses; cotton shirting is finished with a single embroidered rose. Hybrids are explored: cotton gabardine with hand-painted check; silk wool with leather and torn rose wool silk jacquard or Sheffield lace jacquard or print. The glamour of the 1950s ballroom is reflected in chandelier crystal embroideries on tuxedo jackets.
There are bags too: the classic harness belt bag is introduced in a larger size in nylon, or black leather with contrast piping, embellished with the house’s signature skull. An oversized double zip belt bag can be worn both around the waist or as a backpack, while the DeManta bag is available in plain black leather, black nylon or printed blue check nylon.
Shop the new range later this year at Alexander McQueen stores in Mall of the Emirates and Dubai Mall