If you’ve wondered what differentiates a man who wears suits from the men whose suits instil and inspire confidence, these are the ultimate style points you need to know.
One of the most pivotal decisions one can make when shopping for the perfect suit is selecting the right style. Peaked shoulders versus traditional or double breasted versus a standard closure? These are just a few of the questions that one encounters when looking for the right style. Rule of thumb: Always go for comfort. If you are uncomfortable it will instantly diminish the look of your suit whether it’s H&M or Dior Homme.
However, comfort isn’t everything. While suit styles haven’t gone through a major evolution in structure, the more contemporary styles are often slimmer and have contrasting lapels. Keep all other detailing to a minimum. A subtle detail that works on most men’s suits is piping (the outer rim or fabric that often contrasts with the jacket and runs along its hem, collar or pocket) and it can update an otherwise dated suit. If you’re over 50, keep it classic and go for a sleek black look because classics are always in style.
A skinny suit or more form-fitting silhouette will definitely keep you current but, as mentioned above, if this isn’t your look or doesn’t suit your body type then tailoring is the most important aspect to wearing your suit just right. The right tailoring makes for 50 per cent of a perfect suit. A slimmer trouser is very different from a closely tapered one; consult your boutique’s tailor for an expert opinion on what suits your body, while keeping in mind that the right fit will redefine your silhouette and add volumes of confidence to your character. Brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani all offer tailoring in store, as well as bespoke services.
The right fabric is often dependent on the occasion. Are you attending a wedding or partying in Ibiza? (If it’s the later we suggest a lightweight Giorgio Armani). These questions need to be asked in order to best analyse which suit to wear and, in turn, project the best version of yourself to the world. If this is more for everyday wear, look to premium stretch wools and wool gabardines for a slick daytime look. By evening, opt for textiles with a dash of shine such as Shantung silk or satin collars in the same shade as your jacket. Every instance differs but the rule of thumb is, once again, comfort and common sense; linen suits are lightweight and make for breathable daywear while satin is heavier and sticks to the skin in warm weather.