Looks inspired by Donatella Versace’s late friend, The Prodigy’s Keith Flint
As the models took to the catwalk sporting dyed spiky hair, bleached denim, tie-dyed T-shirts and metal grommet leather trousers, there felt something eerily familiar about the launch of Versace’s men’s spring-summer 2020 collection in Milan last weekend. Need another clue? Suddenly, ‘Firestarter’ by The Prodigy played over the top. This was a nod to the band’s Keith Flint, who died back in March.
Of course, if you had heard Donatella Versace’s speech at the start of the event, you would know of her friendship with the late star. She called him, “my friend, and a disruptor of this world.” His style is all over this new collection.
There are playful touches too – car prints on suits, echoing Versace’s belief that boys become men, or rather ‘firestarters’, when they get their driving licence. This coming of age theme, becoming an individual – like Flint himself – is referenced throughout.
The power suit is revisited through innovative silhouettes, fabrics and playful hardware accents. Double-breasted jackets pay homage to the brand’s DNA, with half of the garment in solid black contrasting against Prince of Wales fabric. Laminated texture and lurex separates juxtapose formalwear, imposing a new energy.
Fringed leather outerwear, motorcycle vests and dark denim are introduced as wardrobe essentials, layered over new prints. Versace iconography is channelled into 1990s culture, with pop-art motifs, silk shirts and casual trousers. Vintage Versace advertising, featuring the mythological character Narcissus, is featured on denim.
An archive print featuring the Roman god, Bacchus, hand-painted by artist and friend of the house, Andy Dixon, also features. Silk shirts, knitwear, and light metallic separates showcase the collaboration between Versace and the artist.